Haven't surfed for over 2 weeks, dodgy ankle, shallow banks, inlet open, cold smelly brown water, no swell - you name it. Plenty of reasons not to go. It really has been appalling.
Today at the leisurely time af midday I strolled down to find green water, very civilised offshore conditions, rain showers interspersed with bright sunlight and nobody at the point. I almost didn't go in because it seemed as though there was no swell at all, but the little surfable sets convinced me. (These are old pics but similar to what I surfed today - I have noticed that I have lost some weight since these were taken which is a bonus!)
I had an hour there all to myself before that characteristic odour signalled the tide had turned and the inlet was flushing - literally - icy sewerage and rotting vegetation from the inlet. (if I have to handle shit I at least want it to be warm, and my own preferably)
So nice to get some gentle stoke from the mild conditions before 3 days back at work.
1 comments:
Ha ha! Yes, your own is far more preferable. That brown water is so cold isn't it?
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